Sudahjangan ribut, itu mungkin memang rejeki anda, periksa saja bagian IR remot kontrol atau bagian penerima remot, biasanya di suplay dengan tegangan antara 3,3 volt dan 5 volt melalui resistor 100 ohm, kerusakan sering terjadi pada kapasitor setelah resistor 100 ohm tersebut mengalami konslet atau setengah konslet. Seiring dengan perkembangan teknologi, kebutuhan akan daya listrik semakin meningkat. Salah satu cara untuk memenuhi kebutuhan tersebut adalah dengan menggunakan power supply unit PSU yang memiliki daya yang lebih besar. Namun, tidak semua PSU memiliki daya yang cukup besar. Oleh karena itu, modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt menjadi salah satu solusi yang dapat artikel ini, kami akan membahas tentang cara modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt. Kami akan memberikan tips, berita, dan tutorial yang dapat membantu Anda untuk memodifikasi PSU komputer Anda Itu PSU Komputer?PSU Power Supply Unit adalah sebuah perangkat keras yang berfungsi untuk mengatur dan menyalurkan daya listrik ke seluruh komponen dalam komputer. PSU komputer biasanya memiliki daya yang bervariasi, mulai dari 300 watt hingga 1200 watt. Semakin besar daya yang dibutuhkan, semakin besar pula daya yang harus disediakan oleh PSU Harus Menjadi 24 Volt?Ada beberapa alasan mengapa PSU komputer harus diubah menjadi 24 volt. Salah satunya adalah untuk memenuhi kebutuhan daya yang lebih besar. PSU komputer yang sudah diubah menjadi 24 volt mampu menyediakan daya yang lebih besar dibandingkan dengan PSU komputer yang belum itu, modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt juga dapat membantu menghemat biaya. PSU komputer yang memiliki daya yang lebih besar biasanya lebih mahal. Dengan melakukan modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt, Anda dapat menghemat biaya tanpa harus membeli PSU Cara Modifikasi PSU Komputer Menjadi 24 Volt?Modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt tidaklah sulit. Anda hanya perlu mengikuti langkah-langkah berikutLangkah 1 Persiapan Alat dan BahanSebelum memulai modifikasi, pastikan Anda sudah menyiapkan alat dan bahan yang diperlukan. Berikut adalah daftar alat dan bahan yang diperlukanSolder besiKawat tembagaResistor 10 ohmDiode 1N4007Kabel listrikPlat aluminiumHeat sinkLangkah 2 Membuka Casing PSUPertama-tama, buka casing PSU komputer Anda. Pastikan Anda sudah mematikan semua sumber daya dan melepaskan kabel listrik dari stopkontak sebelum membuka casing 3 Membuat RangkaianSetelah casing PSU terbuka, carilah rangkaian DC-DC converter yang terdapat di dalam PSU. Lepaskan rangkaian tersebut dari PCB dan hubungkan rangkaian tersebut dengan resistor 10 ohm dan diode 4 Memasang Plat Aluminium dan Heat SinkSetelah rangkaian terpasang, pasang plat aluminium dan heat sink pada rangkaian tersebut. Hal ini bertujuan untuk mengurangi suhu yang dihasilkan oleh 5 Memasang Kabel ListrikSetelah itu, pasang kabel listrik pada rangkaian yang sudah terpasang. Pastikan kabel listrik sudah terpasang dengan benar dan tidak ada kabel yang semua kabel terpasang dengan benar, tutup casing PSU dan pasang kembali semua bagian yang sudah dilepas sebelumnya. Pasang kabel listrik ke stopkontak dan sumber daya Anda sudah siap PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt dapat menjadi solusi untuk memenuhi kebutuhan daya yang lebih besar. Selain itu, modifikasi ini juga dapat membantu menghemat biaya. Dalam melakukan modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt, pastikan Anda sudah menyiapkan alat dan bahan yang diperlukan dan mengikuti langkah-langkah dengan artikel ini bermanfaat bagi Anda yang ingin memodifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt. BeliSwitching Power Supply PSU 24V 15A 24 Volt 15 Ampere High Quality with Fan. Harga Murah di Lapak Kedai Aneka Barang. Telah Terjual Lebih Dari 315. Pengiriman cepat Pembayaran 100% aman. Belanja Sekarang Juga Hanya di Bukalapak. The power supply or “PSU” is the electrical heart of your PC. And if yours has recently stopped beating, or you’re upgrading your computer with more powerful components, you need a new one. Choosing a new power supply can be tricky, since you’ll need to determine the required power draw, or wattage, of the rest of your components. You’ll also have to select a model that fits in your PC, and one that has the correct cables rails to fit your components. Then you’ll need to install it, and since the power supply is directly connected to multiple components, it’s a rather involved procedure. Let’s break it down. Picking a New Power Supply Choosing the right power supply is essential for making sure your PC runs well. Without an adequate supply of regulated electricity, your desktop might suffer from performance issues, or possibly not boot at all. How Much Power Do I Need? The amount of power a power supply delivers is measured in watts. They generally provide from around two hundred for the smallest and most efficient machines to over a thousand one kilowatt for the biggest, beefiest gaming and media desktops. Determining how much power you need is a matter of adding up the power draw from all of your components. The biggest two power draws on a PC are typically CPU and graphics card. That’s assuming you use a graphics card, of course—not all PCs have a separate card, and sometimes even a discrete card is low-power enough to draw its electricity directly from the motherboard. But if your PC is built for gaming or even light media editing duties, you’ll need to account for it. Other components also draw power, including hard drives, optical drives, and cooling systems like fans or radiators. These are typically require much lower power, and can usually get away with rough estimates. If you want to estimate your power requirements, look at the specifications of each component in particular. For example, our test machine at How-To Geek uses an Intel Core i7-7700K processor. On Intel’s website, we see that the processor draws an average of 91 watts under high load. Here are the power requirements for the rest of our test build’s components Processor 91 watts Graphics card Radeon RX 460 114 watts at peak Motherboard 40-80 watts RAM under 5 watts per DIMM – estimate 20 watts for our build SSD under 10 watts 120mm fan for CPU cooler under 10 watts Based on these general figures, we can estimate that the How-To Geek desktop won’t use more than 350 watts under its full load. And since the graphics card specifications recommend at least a 400 watt power supply, that’s where we’ll start. A margin of error is a handy thing to have, not to mention the fact that having a little extra power gives you room to add more components in the future—like extra storage drives or cooling fans. If you’re not entirely sure about your PC’s power supply needs, check out this handy online calculator. Just plug in your components and it gives you a recommended wattage. Add a little bit for a safety margin, and you have wattage you need your PSU to deliver. What Form Factor Should I Choose? After you’ve determined how much power you need, you’ll need to find a power supply that physically fits in your computer. That’s what “form factor” means there are a few standardized sizes for power supplies, and odds are that one of them will fit the case you’re already using. The most common size for power supplies is “ATX”—the same standard name for a consumer-grade “tower” computer. These fit into almost all full-sized desktop computers, and you’ll find them ranging in power from around 300 watts all the way up to 850 watts. Some ATX-standard power supplies are longer than normal, stretching to eight or ten inches long, but keeping their width and height standardized. These are the monsters that can power high-end CPUs, multiple GPUs, arrays of storage drives, and a wind tunnel’s worth of cooling fans, stretching from 900 watts all the way up to 1200 watts and beyond. Sometimes these extra-large ATX power supplies will have trouble fitting into a standard case, and require oversized “gaming” or workstation cases. Unless you specifically bought or built your computer to have a ton of power, you probably don’t have to worry about it. If you do have a monster PC, look up the case’s specifications it will let you know the maximum dimensions of the power supply bay. On the opposite end of the spectrum, some cases are too small for even a normal-sized ATX power supply. These include “small form factor” cases and those that are meant to hold smaller standardized motherboards, like Micro-ATX and Mini-ITX. These power supplied generally top out at around 400 watts, though some more expensive and more powerful units are made. At this size things can get confusing, since some enthusiast Mini-ITX cases can also fit a full-sized ATX power supply for beefy gamer configurations. SFX and TFX power supplies are for small, compact cases. If you go even smaller, things tend to get non-standardized, and you’ll want to look for a replacement for your specific model. If you’re upgrading because you don’t have enough power in your current power supply and your case won’t accept anything bigger, you’ll likely need to upgrade your case as well, and move all of your other components into it. At this point, a complete PC replacement might be more practical. What Cables Do I Need? The cables that run from your power supply to the various components in your PC generally standardized, but there are three crucial types you want to check for compatibility with your specific machine Main motherboard cable This cable runs directly from your power supply to your motherboard, and plugs into the board using 20 or 24 pin plug. Most high-end power supplies have 20 pin plug, plus an additional 4 pin plug so that you can plug it into either type of motherboard. It’s worth paying attention to how many pins your motherboard uses and making sure you buy a power supply that can handle it. CPU motherboard cable This cable also runs to the motherboard, but is used to power your CPU. These come in 4, 6, and 8 pin varieties. Some high-end motherboards offer combinations like an 8-pin and additional 4-pin connection to spread out the voltage, but these are rare. GPU power cables These cables run from your power supply directly to a graphics card. If you don’t use a graphics card, or if the card you use doesn’t require separate power, then you don’t need to worry about these. Graphics cards that do require separate power use either a 6 or 8 pin plug. Some of the bigger cards even require two cables. Most power supplies powerful enough to run gaming rigs offer a pair of cables for your graphics card even if you only need one of them, and offer a 6 pin plug with an additional 2 pin plug so they can accomodate whatever card you use. It’s something to watch out for, though. You’ll also need cables for other components hard drives, optical drives, case fans, and so on. Modern storage and optical drives use standardized SATA power connections, and every modern power supply includes them. Case fans typically use 3 or 4 pin plugs, and again, modern power supplies usually come with at least one of these. Older drives or fans may use a 4-pin Molex connector, with larger pins and a trapezoidal plug. Many power supplies offer a rail or adapters for these, but if the model you’ve chosen doesn’t, Molex adapters are cheap and easy to find. What About Efficiency? Modern power supplies include an efficiency rating, usually indicated by the “80 Plus” voluntary certification system. This indicates that the power supply consumes no more than 20% over its output wattage; if you buy a 400 watt power supply, at full load it won’t consume more than 500 watts from your home’s electrical system. Compliance with the 80 Plus system is indicated by a sticker on the power supply, and usually advertised as a feature on the box or online listing. There are different grades of the 80 Plus sticker standard, bronze, silver, gold, platinum, and titanium. Each higher level indicates a higher point of efficiency, and generally a higher price. Almost all power supplies sold at retail reach the minimum 80 Plus requirement. Your power supply’s efficiency rating won’t affect its output—if you buy a 400 watt supply, it will deliver 400 watts to your computer, no matter how much it draws from the power outlet. But those wishing to save some money on their power bills in the long term may want to shop for a higher-rated supply. Modular Power Supplies Are Awesome Modular power supplies allow the power rails from the PSU to be unplugged both at the component side and on the power supply side. A full modular system. By comparison, a non-modular design has a big bundle of power cables permanently affixed to the steel box of the power supply itself. A non-modular power supply, with permanently-affixed cables. The advantage of a modular supply is that you don’t have to have cables in your case that you don’t need. This makes running the power cables easier, keeps things looking tidier, and helping preserve good air flow in the case. The only real downside of modular supplies is that tend to be a bit more expensive, and they’re usually only offered on higher-end power supplies. You’ll also find semi-modular designs, with permanent rails for common components like the motherboard and CPU but modular rails for the rest. They can be a handy compromise. Installing Your New Power Supply So you’ve picked out your power supply and you’re ready to install it. You’ll need a standard Philips-head screwdriver and a clean, well-lit place to work. If your home or office is particularly susceptible to static electricity, you might also want an anti-static bracelet. Oh, and before you go any further DO NOT OPEN THE METAL CASING OF THE POWER SUPPLY ITSELF. There are high-power capacitors inside that can injure or kill you if they discharge. For the same reason, don’t stick any tools or wires inside the holes for the cooling fan or exhaust, either. Removing the Old Power Supply Power down your PC, remove all the power and data cables, and then move it to your work area. You’ll want to remove any access panels from the case on some PCs, you have to remove the whole case as one piece. On a standard ATX case, these are on the right and left sides, held in place with screws on the back of the computer. Remove these screws two or three on a side, then pull back the access panels and set them aside. If you use a small form factor or other non-standard case, consult the manual. Remove as much of the exterior panels as you can to give yourself maximum access to the interior you’ll need to unplug power cables from multiple components. Now, identify all of the components plugged into your power supply. On a standard PC build, this will be Motherboard long 20 or 24 pin plug. CPU on the motherboard 4 or 8 pin plug, near the top of the motherboard. You may need to remove the CPU cooler to see this if it’s an oversized cooler. Storage drives Hard drives and solid-state drives, usually plugged in with a standard SATA cable. Multiple drives may be connected to one cable. Optical drives Also use a standard SATA cable. Older models may use a Molex adapter. Graphics cards larger, more powerful discrete cards draw power directly from the power supply, even though they’re plugged into the motherboard. 6 pin and 8 pin rails are common, with some high-end cards needing multiple rails. Case fans and radiators When not plugged into the motherboard or case itself, these fans can draw power from accessory rails using small 4 pin connections or older Molex connections. Check from both sides of your PC and multiple angles excess lengths of power and data cables are often stored behind the metal motherboard mounting tray. When you’ve identified which components are plugged into your power supply, unplug them one by one. Some may be held in place with plastic tabs, but you shouldn’t need to use anything except your fingers to unplug them. If you have to remove anything to get to these plugs, especially data cables, remember their original positions and restore them as you have access. Taking pictures as you go is a great idea. If your power supply is modular, you also can remove the power rails from the back of the power supply housing. Carefully pull them free of the PC case itself and set them aside. If your power supply isn’t modular, simply pull all the power rails to the most accessible open space and make sure they’re free of entanglements with anything else in the case. Now turn your attention to the back of the PC. The power supply is held in place with three to five screws that are accessible from the outside of the PC case. Remove them and set them aside. Some case designs differ; if you see more screws in non-standard locations on the power supply, remove them too. With all the cables unplugged and the retention screws removed, you can now pull the power supply free of the case. Depending on where the power supply is placed top or bottom of the case and what other components are nearby, pulling it out of the case might be easy or might be challenging. If it’s near the top of the case and it’s crowded by an oversized CPU cooler, for example, you might end up having to remove that cooler so you can get the power supply out. Installing the New Power Supply Now, we’re going to reverse the process. Place the new power supply in position in your PC. If it’s modular, don’t plug anything into it. If it isn’t modular, simply trail the power cables outside of the PC for easy access. You’ll want to position the exhaust fan on the top or bottom of the power supply so that it’s facing away from the motherboard and the other internal components. So if the power supply is mounted at the top of the case, point the exhaust fan up. If it’s bottom-mounted, point it down. If the exhaust fan blows out the back of the case, it doesn’t matter. Secure the power supply to the rear of the PC case with the retention screws, screwing from the outside of the case into the metal housing of the power supply. Use the screws from the previous power supply if you’re replacing it, otherwise the screws should have come with either your PC case or the power supply itself. When the power supply is fixed in place, it’s time to plug in all those cables. If your power supply is modular, plug the cables into their sockets on the back of the supply itself. Now plug the opposite end of the rails into their corresponding components. These components are fairly standardized motherboard, motherboard-CPU, storage drives and disc drives, GPU if applicable, and case fans or radiators if they’re not already plugged in. You should be able to plug everything in without any further tools. If something isn’t plugging in all the way, check the orientation of the plug; all of the multi-pin cables should only be able to fit one way. As you’re plugging in components, be wary of where you run the power cables. The inside of your PC doesn’t have to look like a showroom, but you should make sure that power and data cables don’t trail near cooling fans they can drag and tangle. Even if they’re only touching slightly, they’ll make an annoying noise once your PC is running and potentially strip the protective casing. Also, keeping cables as tidy as you can not only looks better, it helps promote good airflow inside your case and makes components easier for you to get to in the future. Once you’re sure everything’s plugged in, you might want to move your PC back to its normal position with your mouse, keyboard, and monitor before closing up. Being careful not to touch any of the interior components while it’s running, plug everything in and power it up, just to make sure it’s booting correctly. If not, then go back and check your connections again to make sure you haven’t missed a power plug or accidentally removed a data cable. Oh, and check the switch on the back of the power supply to make sure it’s in the “ON” position. If everything looks good, then unplug the external cables, close up the access panels, and screw them into place to get your PC ready for normal operation. Then place it back in its usual spot, and enjoy your new power supply. Image credit Amazon, Newegg READ NEXT â€ș Which Old Components Can You Reuse When Building a New PC?â€ș Intel’s New CPU Can Hit On a Single Coreâ€ș How to Test the Power Supply Unit PSU in Your PCâ€ș The Best Power Supply Units PSUs in 2023â€ș How To Upgrade or Replace Almost Any PC Componentâ€ș How To Upgrade and Install a New CPU or Motherboard or Bothâ€ș Where You Should Splurge When Building a PC and Where You Shouldn’tâ€ș Intel Is Dropping the “I” With 14th Gen CPUs

PowerSupply ATX 24 Pin ATX jenis ini adalah power Supply ATX yang menggunakan 4 pin tambahan yang digabungkan dengan power 20 pin, dan 4 pin lagi terpisah yang berupa tambahan 12 volt. Power jenis ini digunakan pada computer LGA hingga Core i.

Tips Modifikasi PSU Komputer Menjadi 24 Volt CT Jika Anda ingin membangun rangkaian elektronik yang membutuhkan daya 24 volt center tapped CT namun tidak ingin membeli PSU baru, maka modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt CT bisa menjadi solusi yang tepat. Berikut adalah tips modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt CT1. Pahami Prinsip Kerja PSU Komputer Sebelum memodifikasi PSU komputer, Anda harus memahami prinsip kerjanya terlebih dahulu. PSU komputer mengubah arus AC menjadi DC dengan menggunakan transformator dan dioda. Transformator biasanya memiliki dua kumparan yang masing-masing menghasilkan tegangan 12 volt. Untuk mendapatkan 24 volt, Anda perlu menggabungkan dua kumparan tersebut dengan cara center Siapkan Alat dan Bahan Untuk memodifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt CT, Anda memerlukan beberapa alat dan bahan seperti solder, kabel, saklar, dan resistor. Pastikan Anda memiliki semua alat dan bahan yang diperlukan sebelum memulai Matikan PSU Komputer Sebelum memulai modifikasi, pastikan PSU komputer telah dimatikan dan dicabut dari sumber daya listrik. Ini sangat penting untuk menghindari kecelakaan dan kerusakan pada komponen Buka Casing PSU Komputer Untuk memodifikasi PSU komputer, Anda perlu membuka casing PSU terlebih dahulu. Pastikan Anda melakukan ini dengan hati-hati dan memperhatikan bagaimana casing tersebut Identifikasi Kumparan Transformator Setelah membuka casing PSU komputer, identifikasi kumparan transformator yang menghasilkan tegangan 12 volt. Biasanya, kumparan ini diberi label “12V” atau “V12” di Hubungkan Kumparan Transformator Setelah mengidentifikasi kumparan transformator, hubungkan kabel dari tengah-tengah kumparan tersebut ke saklar. Kemudian, hubungkan kabel dari kedua ujung kumparan ke Pasang Resistor Resistor yang digunakan harus memiliki nilai yang sama. Jika kumparan transformator menghasilkan 12 volt dan 2 ampere, maka resistor yang dibutuhkan adalah 2 buah resistor 12 ohm 1 Buat Grounding Pastikan Anda membuat grounding dengan baik. Ini sangat penting untuk menghindari kebocoran arus dan kerusakan pada komponen Pasang Saklar Pasang saklar pada kabel yang menghubungkan tengah-tengah kumparan transformator dengan resistor. Saklar ini digunakan untuk memilih tegangan 12 volt atau 24 Pasang Kembali Casing PSU Setelah selesai memodifikasi PSU komputer, pasang kembali casing PSU dengan hati-hati. Pastikan semua kabel dan komponen terpasang dengan baik dan Terbaru tentang Modifikasi PSU Komputer Menjadi 24 Volt CT Modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt CT bisa menjadi solusi yang tepat untuk membangun rangkaian elektronik yang membutuhkan daya 24 volt. Namun, sebelum memodifikasi PSU komputer, pastikan Anda memahami prinsip kerjanya dan memiliki semua alat dan bahan yang diperlukan. Selain itu, Anda juga perlu memperhatikan keamanan saat memodifikasi PSU komputer. Pastikan PSU komputer telah dimatikan dan dicabut dari sumber daya listrik sebelum memulai modifikasi. Dalam modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt CT, Anda juga perlu memperhatikan grounding dan hubungan kabel dengan baik. Jangan sampai terjadi kebocoran arus atau kerusakan pada komponen lainnya. Modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt CT bisa menjadi solusi yang murah dan efektif untuk membangun rangkaian elektronik yang membutuhkan daya 24 volt. Namun, pastikan Anda melakukan modifikasi dengan hati-hati dan memperhatikan semua faktor yang Modifikasi PSU Komputer Menjadi 24 Volt CT Berikut adalah tutorial modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt CT1. Pahami Prinsip Kerja PSU Komputer Sebelum memodifikasi PSU komputer, pahami terlebih dahulu prinsip kerjanya. PSU komputer mengubah arus AC menjadi DC dengan menggunakan transformator dan dioda. Transformator biasanya memiliki dua kumparan yang masing-masing menghasilkan tegangan 12 volt. Untuk mendapatkan 24 volt, Anda perlu menggabungkan dua kumparan tersebut dengan cara center Siapkan Alat dan Bahan Siapkan semua alat dan bahan yang diperlukan seperti solder, kabel, saklar, dan Matikan PSU Komputer Matikan PSU komputer dan cabut dari sumber daya Buka Casing PSU Komputer Buka casing PSU komputer dengan hati-hati dan perhatikan bagaimana casing tersebut Identifikasi Kumparan Transformator Identifikasi kumparan transformator yang menghasilkan tegangan 12 volt. Biasanya, kumparan ini diberi label “12V” atau “V12” di Hubungkan Kumparan Transformator Hubungkan kabel dari tengah-tengah kumparan transformator ke saklar. Kemudian, hubungkan kabel dari kedua ujung kumparan ke Pasang Resistor Pasang resistor yang memiliki nilai yang sama dengan kumparan transformator. Jika kumparan transformator menghasilkan 12 volt dan 2 ampere, maka resistor yang dibutuhkan adalah 2 buah resistor 12 ohm 1 Buat Grounding Buat grounding dengan baik untuk menghindari kebocoran arus dan kerusakan pada komponen Pasang Saklar Pasang saklar pada kabel yang menghubungkan tengah-tengah kumparan transformator dengan resistor. Saklar ini digunakan untuk memilih tegangan 12 volt atau 24 Pasang Kembali Casing PSU Pasang kembali casing PSU dengan hati-hati dan pastikan semua kabel dan komponen terpasang dengan baik dan rapi. Dengan mengikuti tutorial di atas, Anda bisa memodifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt CT dengan mudah dan Modifikasi PSU Komputer Menjadi 24 Volt CT Modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt CT bisa menjadi solusi yang tepat untuk membangun rangkaian elektronik yang membutuhkan daya 24 volt. Namun, sebelum memodifikasi PSU komputer, pastikan Anda memahami prinsip kerjanya dan memiliki semua alat dan bahan yang diperlukan. Dalam modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt CT, Anda juga perlu memperhatikan grounding dan hubungan kabel dengan baik. Jangan sampai terjadi kebocoran arus atau kerusakan pada komponen lainnya. Namun, jika Anda berhasil memodifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt CT, Anda bisa menghemat biaya dan memiliki sumber daya yang efektif untuk membangun rangkaian elektronik yang membutuhkan daya 24 volt. Overall, modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt CT bisa menjadi solusi yang murah dan efektif untuk membangun rangkaian elektronik yang membutuhkan daya 24 volt. Namun, pastikan Anda melakukan modifikasi dengan hati-hati dan memperhatikan semua faktor yang diperlukan.
Komputer& Laptop; Komponen Komputer; UPS; UPS Modif Aki Mobil 24V Inforce 1200VA & CHARGER AKI 10AH - UPS Modifikasi ï»żPSU atau Power Supply Unit merupakan salah satu komponen penting dalam sebuah komputer. PSU berfungsi untuk mengubah arus listrik AC menjadi DC yang dibutuhkan oleh komponen-komponen dalam komputer. Namun, terkadang kita membutuhkan arus listrik DC dengan voltase yang lebih tinggi dari 12 volt yang biasanya disediakan oleh PSU standar. Pada artikel kali ini, kita akan membahas cara modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt. Peringatan Sebelum melakukan modifikasi PSU komputer, ada beberapa hal yang perlu diperhatikan. Pertama, modifikasi ini harus dilakukan dengan hati-hati dan oleh orang yang berpengalaman dalam bidang elektronik. Kedua, PSU yang dimodifikasi hanya boleh digunakan untuk keperluan yang sesuai dengan kemampuannya dan tidak boleh digunakan untuk keperluan lain yang dapat membahayakan keselamatan dan keamanan. Bahan-Bahan yang Dibutuhkan Sebelum memulai modifikasi, pastikan Anda sudah menyiapkan bahan-bahan yang dibutuhkan. Berikut adalah beberapa bahan yang biasanya dibutuhkan PSU komputer Transformator step-up Diode bridge Kapasitor elektrolitik Resistor Terminal blok Kabel listrik Heat sink Langkah-Langkah Modifikasi Berikut adalah langkah-langkah untuk melakukan modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt Buka casing PSU komputer dan keluarkan PCB PSU dari casing. Identifikasi komponen-komponen pada PCB PSU. Cari tempat yang cocok untuk memasang transformator step-up. Solder transformator step-up pada tempat yang telah Anda tentukan. Solder diode bridge pada PCB PSU. Solder kapasitor elektrolitik pada diode bridge. Solder resistor pada diode bridge. Solder terminal blok pada PCB PSU. Solder kabel listrik pada terminal blok. Pasang heat sink pada komponen-komponen yang memerlukan pendinginan ekstra. Keuntungan Menggunakan PSU Komputer yang Sudah Dimodifikasi Ada beberapa keuntungan yang dapat Anda peroleh dengan menggunakan PSU komputer yang sudah dimodifikasi menjadi 24 volt Anda dapat menghemat biaya karena tidak perlu membeli PSU baru yang sudah mendukung voltase 24 volt. Anda dapat menghemat ruang karena tidak perlu menambahkan PSU baru pada sistem Anda. Anda dapat meningkatkan performa sistem Anda dengan menggunakan voltase yang lebih tinggi. Kesimpulan Modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt dapat dilakukan dengan hati-hati dan oleh orang yang berpengalaman dalam bidang elektronik. Modifikasi ini dapat memberikan beberapa keuntungan seperti menghemat biaya dan meningkatkan performa sistem. Namun, sebelum melakukan modifikasi, pastikan Anda sudah menyiapkan bahan-bahan dan memahami langkah-langkah yang harus dilakukan. 2023-06-10 Monitor Komputer - Dvd / Vcd - Dvb / Receiver parabola - Printer dll. Cara pemasangan pada TV atau cara pasang gacun astelo pada televisi : 1. Matikan system Oscilator rangkaian yang akan diganti, dengan cara memutuskan jalur dari tarfo yang menuju kolektor Transistor, Fet atau STR dan semua pin pada bagian primer trafo yang menuju Oscilator. 2.
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Modifpsu komputer jadi 24 volt. Schematic of the modification of at or atx pc power supply to a 3 15v bench power supply pin 1 of xx494 forward converter supply single mosfet mod. Yang kita pakai cuma kabel warna kuning dan hitam saja karena yang ada tegangannya 12 volt setelah itu kita sambungkan kabel satu persatu dengan penjepit aki sesuai
10 tahun agoTerkadang sebuah perangkat/rangkaian elektronik membutuhkan sumber daya arus yang cukup besar untuk dapat bekerja dengan optimal, namun untuk menemukan sebuah power supply dengan arus dan efisiensi yang baik dengan harga yang terjangkau dirasa cukup sulit 🙂 Solusinya adalah memanfaatkan Power Supply PC bekas yang tidak terpakai dan mengubahnya menjadi sebuah Adaptor! 😀Sebuah power supply adaptor yang bagus, memiliki efisiensi tinggi dan memiliki perlindungan proteksi terhadap hubung singkat korsleting dan arus yang tinggi 25-40 Ampere dapat anda temukan di toko-toko elektronik dengan harga yang bisa dibilang mahal namun dengan memanfaatkan power supply bekas PC yang tidak terpakai, dengan catatan power supply tersebut kondisinya masih 80% bisa ON, bisa kita ubah menjadi power supply desktop atau adaptor untuk keperluan multifungsi dengan tegangan 12V, 5V, V, -5V dan -12V. daripada power supply PC nya nganggur mending dimanfaatkan aja 😀Iseng-iseng dikit saya punya power supply bekas PC yang gak terpakai, ya udah ane jadiin adaptor aja. lumayan buat keperluan multifungsi, buat charger batre, lampu senter dll asal tegangannya sesuai aja terutama untuk orang yang suka otak atik rangkaian elektronika pasti membutuhkan power supply adaptor 😀Sebelum ke pembuatannya, kita perlu tau dulu sekilas tentang power supply PC yang akan kita ubah. sebuah ATX power supply memiliki input jaringan listrik PLN rata-rata 220 volt dengan keluarannya berupa tegangan yang bervariasi yang dilewatkan oleh sebuah konektor ATX. Ok sekarang ke tahap pembuatannya 🙂 bahan-bahan yang diperlukan Dioda LED 2 buah dengan beda warna. berfungsi sebagai indikator power dari listrik PLN dan power dari jalur “ON” power supply. Ok, bahan2nya sudah selesai. sekarang ke pembuatannya 🙂PCB titik atau PCB bolong. Untuk tempat pemasangan 11 ohm 5 Watt 2 buah. resistor ini berfungsi sebagai beban. karena power supply ATX adalah tipe power supply jenis switching. maka jika dalam keadaan ON tanpa beban, power supply nya lama-lama akan cepat rusak. 2 buah resistor ini nantinya dihubungkan secara bakar. tubing ini berbentuk pipa yang berbahan seperti karet dengan variasi warna yang berbeda. tubing ini berfungsi selain sebagai isolator juga melindungi kabel sambungan sehingga nantinya akan terlihat rapi. penggunaannya, tubing ini dimasukan kedalam kabel sambungan yang akan dilindungi kemudian dibakar sesaat sampai karet tubing mengkerut dan menguatkan sambungan antara dua atau saklar. fungsinya untuk On/Off. disini ada dua switch, yang besar dan yang kecil. switch yang besar untuk saklar yang terhubung dengan jaringan PLN, sedangkan saklar yang kecil dihubungkan dengan kabel “POWER ON” power supply yang warna hijau terhadap ground kabel warna hitam.Jack banana, penamanaan ini berbeda-beda kalo di tempat ane namanya sih jack banana fungsinya sebagai konektor output untuk disambungkan ke beban. ok apapun itu namanya bentuknnya kira-kira seperti iniPotong semua kabel dan pisahkan dari semua konektor/socket ATX pasang switching yang besar di bagian lubang yang asalnya tempat kabel output nya. pas tidak? 😀Selanjutnya membuat lubang untuk switching yang kecil dan konektor outputnya. tandai 7 lubang dengan ukuran yang sama dengan ditandai, selanjutnya tanda titik tersebut di bor untuk membuat lubang. ukuran lubang jack banana sekitar 10mm. agar hasil pelubangan terlihat rapi nantinya, gunakan mata bor yang kecil dulu kemudian dilanjutkan bor lagi dengan mata bor dilubangi, pasang jack banananya satu persatu, yang hitam nantinnya dihubungkan dengan ground kabel hitam dan jack banana yang merah adalah untuk skema dibawah untuk pemasangan dan instalasi pengkabelannya. ingat, yang dihubungkan ke resistor adalah kabel dengan tegangannya 5 Volt saja. sisanya langsung dihubungkan dengan jack banana yang 2 buah resistor secara paralel pada PCB pasang 2 buah LED pada lubang yang tersedia. Setelah dirakit semua hasilnya kurang lebih seperti ini Hasil test tegangan dengan menggunakan multitesterjika semuanya berjalan dengan baik tanpa ada kesalahan, tinggal dipasangkan label saja Hasilnya OK 😀Selesai 🙂 sekarang kita sudah punya power supply switching efisiensi tinggi dengan memanfaatkan power supply PC yang sudah tidak gambar dari bentuk Power Supply yang lain bisa dilihat disini. Selamat The Author KelebihanUPS Modif : - Sudah ada kipas Pendingin - Bisa menggunakan 2 Buah aki motor/mobil, basah atau kering 12V - Sudah modifikasi penambahan kabel dan jepit aki - Time limit sudah di jumper/modif jadi bisa tahan berjam jam 24 jam bisa selama aki mampu - Sudah ada charger AKI nya, otomatis berhenti apabila aki sudah penuh. - Mengunakan 2
ATX PSU ControllerKebutuhan power supply untuk kepentingan dalam eksperimen sehari-hari sangatlah penting dan diperlukan untuk berbagai rangkaian yang akan dipraktekkan, variasi tegangan yang dibutuhkan seringkali bermacam-macam mulai dari 3V, 5V, 12V, 15V dan seterusnya tergantung rangkaiannya, selain tegangan yang bervariasi kita juga memerlukan arus yang harus mencukupi. Dipasaran tersedia berbagi macam power supply variabel mulai dari versi analog hingga digital namun tentunya dengan harga yang lumayan cukup mengurus isi kantong heheh 😁.Pada artikel sebelumnya saya telah membuat beberapa rangkaian yang boleh dibilang bisa sebagai power supply variabel analog karena memang memiliki kemampuan yang dapat mengatur tegangan keluaran secara variabel dan telah saya gunakan sejak lama untuk menemani kegiatan eksperimen proyek-proyek elektronika ringan sebelumnya dengan arus yang cukup sedang yaitu maksimal 3A dengan pengaturan tegangan melalui potensiometer maksimal 15V. Baca juga Membuat Power Supply Variable PSUKIT 0 - 30V Karena dirumah saya mempunyai beberapa koleksi atx psu atau power supply komputer dan sudah lama tidak digunakan maka saya akan mencoba memodifikasinya menjadi power supply variabel mengingat sudah banyak artikel diluaran sana yang sudah memodifikasi power supply komputer ini menjadi dapat diatur keluarannya tidak ada salahnya saya pun mencobanya. Dari beberapa power supply komputer yang saya milik ada dua buah yang memakai ic pwm tl494 atau ka7500. Kenapa harus yang memakai ic tl494? Ya alasan utamanya adalah karena sangat mudah untuk dilakukan modifikasi sebab ic tl494 memilih dua buah error amplifier didalamnya yang akan digunakan sebagai pengatur tegangan dan arus keluarannya. Skema ATX-300P4-PFCModifikasi yang dilakukan hanya pada kedua pin error amplifier tersebut yaitu pin 1 dan pin 2 serta pin 15 dan pin 16. Pin 1 dan pin 2 digunakan sebagai pengaturan tegangan dimana pin 1 digunakan sebagai limit dan pin 2 digunakan sebagai set tegangan sementara pin 15 dan pin 16 digunakan sebagai pengaturan batas arus dimana pin 15 digunakan sebagai set arus dan pin 16 digunakan sebagai limit arus. Satu lagi agar psu atx tidak protek saat tegangan keluaran lebih dari 12 V maka pin 4 Dead Time harus dimatikan atau diputus dari rangkaian proteknya, jadi pin 4 harus 0V. Dengan mematikan pin 4 maka keluaran dari psu atx ini mampu diatur sampai 25 V dengan demikian elko bagian sekunder harus diganti karena memiliki rating tegang maksimal hanya 16V, diganti dengan elko yang mempunyai rating tegang maksimal 50V. Kemudian rangkaian protek dan komponen lainnya pada bagian sekunder harus dilepas agar tidak pusing dalam melakukan modifikasi. Dibawah ini saya tampilkan skema mana saja yang perlu dimodifikasi dan komponen mana saja yang bisa dibuang. Modifikasi ATXPSU IC TL494 Jika akan melakukan modifikasi sederhana, yaitu hanya menambah dua potensio untuk pengaturan tegangan dan arus maka skemanya akan saya tampilkan seperti berikut ini. Modifikasi ATXPSU adjustable Namun saya tertarik membuat modifikasi dengan tampilan lcd 16x2 dan rotary Encoder sebagai pengatur tegangan dan arusnya setelah saya melihat sebuah video di youtube. Dibawah ini adalah sebuah rangkaian kontrol untuk mengatur pin dari error amplifier ic tl494 atx psu. Skema kontroler ATXPSU adjustable Skema diatas saya rancang menjadi sebuah layout yang menarik namun saya rancang dalam dual layer karena saya tidak akan membuat PCB sendiri seperti sebelumnya karena saat ini sudah ada pabrik pembuatan pcb profesional yang dapat membuat PCB dengan kualitas premium namun dengan harga yang terjangkau yakni hanya $5 saja sudah bisa mendapatkan 10 lembar pcb ukuran 10cm x 10cm dengan proses yang cepat dan berbagai pilihan warna menarik, saya mencetak pcb di situs PCBWay. Oh iya jika kamu belum pernah pesan pcb di PCBWay maka apabila kamu mendaftar akun PCBWay untuk pertama kalinya dan melakukan pemesanan maka kamu akan diberikan kredit gratis sebesar $5 untuk pembayarannya jadi pesanan pcb pertamamu di PCBWay adalah Gratis! Jadi tunggu apa lagi segera daftar akun PCBWay sekarang juga. Daftar akun PCBWay Klik join untuk daftar akun PCBWay Nah inilah layout kontroler ATXPSU adjustable yang telah saya rancang. Dibawah ini adalah pcb kontroler ATXPSU cetakan dari PCBWay. Kontroler ATXPSU adjustable bagian ATXPSU adjustable bagian saya rakit dan dimasukan kedalam Cashing maka tampilan nya lebih menarik. DIY Lab Bench Power Supply from Old ATX PSUPenasaran kan melihat hasilnya, untuk itu mari kita simak video pembuatan, kalibrasi hingga tesnya yang menampilkan tegangan secara akurat.
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[H]ardWare Cases & Case Modding Electronics You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites should upgrade or use an alternative browser. 24V from a PSU? Thread starter Willsonman Start date May 19, 2007 1 Joined Jun 11, 2005 Messages 1,195 Looking at a solution for my case mod issue and am looking at a part that requires 24 volts. is there any way to place a series circuit to get this? Any other way to get 24V? 2 Joined Aug 12, 2005 Messages 3,679 You could be very very lazy and do a probably bad for everything involved ganging together of two 12V sources from the PSU. Other than that, I believe there are voltage multiplying/doubling circuits rectifiers maybe, but I haven't gotten that far yet in my studies. One of the other guys who usually eat these questions alive will probably post a better answer. Mohonri, cpenna, the other EE/CEs/electric guys. 3 Joined Apr 23, 2002 Messages 4,363 ATX power-supplies output +12V and -12V... just take the diff between these AS long as the resultant object didn't need to be reference to 0V AND you don't exceed the current-rating of the relevant rail -12V seems to always have lower power capability 4 Joined Jun 11, 2005 Messages 1,195 well, It will be powering a linear actuator... so not in use all the time. I imagine it will operate off 12V but at a decrease in lifting capacity. How would you wire up the +12V and -12V to get 24V? 5 Joined Oct 29, 2005 Messages 715 There is 24 VDC between the blue -12V and yellow +12V PSU wires. Your circuit cannot rely on the 24VDC being referenced to Ground however, and is only good for amps maximum. 6 Joined Jan 10, 2001 Messages 168 You could be very very lazy and do a probably bad for everything involved ganging together of two 12V sources from the PSU. Putting two molex 0V & 12V pairs in series in an attempt to get 24V is guaranteed to cause a bang. What current do you need? As said, the -12V rail is a low rating, read the PSU label for your figure. 7 Joined Oct 29, 2005 Messages 715 Another option which I have sucessfully used is a 12V DC-DC converter with an isolated output, powered from PSU 12VDC. If you need 24VDC referenced to ground connect the negative voltage output to your PSU +12VDC, and your load between PSU ground and the DC-DC converter positive output. 8 Joined Jul 29, 2005 Messages 5,770 No offense intended, but what movax is suggesting is a very good way to at a minimum blow a fuse in your power supply. Using the -12V rail from an older PSU is also not recommended, because the current rating is very low for that rail. The -12V rail was only used for negative signals on things like serial ports, not for actually powering anything. IMO, your best bet is to actually get a real 24V power supply that can source the kind of current you need. 9 FLECOM Modderator & [H]ardest Folder Evar Joined Jun 27, 2001 Messages 15,773 No offense intended, but what movax is suggesting is a very good way to at a minimum blow a fuse in your power supply. Using the -12V rail from an older PSU is also not recommended, because the current rating is very low for that rail. The -12V rail was only used for negative signals on things like serial ports, not for actually powering anything. IMO, your best bet is to actually get a real 24V power supply that can source the kind of current you need. i agree, most -12v rails on powersupplies are an afterthought at best... i wouldent really recommend using it for anything that is actually going to draw any current... just get yourself a small 24v switching supply from an electronics surplus place and hide it away somewhere and you should be good to go 10 Joined Jun 10, 2005 Messages 25,068 Up convert with a DC to DC converter. IT's the only way if your actuator draws more then .25a or so... I wouldn't trust it otherwise. What movax suggested will cause a major problem... so steer clear. I tried this once with USB ports... wanted to get 10v... It only works with batteries, and seperate sources of power. Since almost all 12v lines come from the same place in the PSU and all grounds go back to common you will get a big spark, and a fire. 11 Joined Jun 11, 2005 Messages 1,195 alright, I'm fine with a dc-dc converter. Anyone know where to get one that I would need? 12 Joined Oct 29, 2005 Messages 715 and are good sources for DC-DC converters. You'll want one that has an input voltage range that your PC can supply typically rated 9V-18V, and has an output current rating suitable for what you are going to power it's best to have some headroom... it you need 1 amp, buy one that has amp output, and MOST IMPORTANT... isolated output. As I touched on earlier, you would connect it like this for 24VDC referenced to PC power supply ground DC-DC converter + input to PSU +12V DC-DC converter - input to PSU Ground DC-DC converter + output to whatever you are powering DC-DC converter - output to PSU +12V Ground for whatever you are powering to PSU ground That will give you 24VDC to whatever you are powering. You'll want some filtering too or the output tends to oscillate. Put a 10uF capacitor across the input and across the output. 13 Joined Jan 24, 2006 Messages 1,171 What exactly prevents the OP from putting two 12V molex connectors into a series and then hookup to the load? 14 Joined Oct 29, 2005 Messages 715 You mean two 12V molex from a standard ATX power supply? The problem would be connecting yellow on one to black on the other, thus shorting out the power supply. 15 Joined Jan 24, 2006 Messages 1,171 You mean two 12V molex from a standard ATX power supply? The problem would be connecting yellow on one to black on the other, thus shorting out the power supply. Yeah I guess it wouldn't work because they have a common ground unlike a battery for example. But what about mains inside your house? You know how you have 220v for your appliances? IIRC they take two 120v lines and combine it into one so I guess it could work that way. 16 Joined Jul 29, 2005 Messages 5,770 Yeah I guess it wouldn't work because they have a common ground unlike a battery for example. But what about mains inside your house? You know how you have 220v for your appliances? IIRC they take two 120v lines and combine it into one so I guess it could work that way. There's a world of difference here between your computer PSU and your house mains. As in Westinghouse vs. Edison difference-the power in your computer is DC, while the mains is AC. You're right about how they get 240VAC in your house-there's typically actually two 120VAC lines and a neutral coming into your house. The two AC lines are 180 degrees out of phase, so the voltage difference between the two is 240V. But that's completely unrelated to what we're working with here. Except that we're still pushing electrons through metal wires.... 17 Joined Jan 24, 2006 Messages 1,171 There's a world of difference here between your computer PSU and your house mains. As in Westinghouse vs. Edison difference-the power in your computer is DC, while the mains is AC. You're right about how they get 240VAC in your house-there's typically actually two 120VAC lines and a neutral coming into your house. The two AC lines are 180 degrees out of phase, so the voltage difference between the two is 240V. But that's completely unrelated to what we're working with here. Except that we're still pushing electrons through metal wires.... Yes I know house mains are are AC while computers are DC but that doesn't mean you can't add up electrical sources in order to increase amperage or voltage. 18 Joined Jul 29, 2005 Messages 5,770 Yes I know house mains are are AC while computers are DC but that doesn't mean you can't add up electrical sources in order to increase amperage or voltage. It depends on how the electrical sources are built. Batteries and depending on phase AC power, yes. Wall-connected DC power supplies...it depends on how their wired. If they're properly isolated, then yes. But I wouldn't count on that being the case for a computer PSU, since the ground on the PSU is often connected to the case ground. It *might* be possible to get 24V using two PSUs, but I wouldn't count on it. I guess you could get a couple of el-cheapo PSUs and try it out. Just wear safety glasses . 19 Joined Oct 29, 2005 Messages 715 It *might* be possible to get 24V using two PSUs, but I wouldn't count on it. I have tried it... you get sparks. The DC-DC converter idea works though. I used a few when I needed -12V at amps for some computers at work. 20 Joined Jan 24, 2006 Messages 1,171 I have tried it... you get sparks. The DC-DC converter idea works though. I used a few when I needed -12V at amps for some computers at work. Yeah because they share a common ground. My idea would be to emulate that of house wiring where they have 1 common ground and 2 "hot". So I guess you'd hook up the two 12v molex connectors and then finish the circuit out to the ground. 21 Joined Jul 29, 2005 Messages 5,770 My idea would be to emulate that of house wiring where they have 1 common ground and 2 "hot". So I guess you'd hook up the two 12v molex connectors and then finish the circuit out to the ground. The reason you can "stack" the two circuits in your house is that one is the opposite voltage of the other. For AC, that's the same as being 180 degrees out of phase. The difference sinx - -1*sinx = 2sinxgives you twice the voltage difference. We don't have that same luxury with a DC PSU. If the second rail were -12V, then sure, we could connect the two grounds together and get 24VDC out. But both of the rails are +12V with respect to the same ground. If I'm understanding you correctly, you're suggesting that you could tie the 12V line from one molex connector to the GND line of another molex connector, and that the "12V" line on the second connector would then be at 24V relative to the GND of the first connector. Is that what you're suggesting? If so, please don't try it. Since the 12V lines from both molex connectors come from the same solder pad inside the PSU, and the GND lines also come from a common solder pad, if you connect one 12V line to a different GND line, you're shorting out the PSU. 22 Joined Jan 24, 2006 Messages 1,171 The reason you can "stack" the two circuits in your house is that one is the opposite voltage of the other. For AC, that's the same as being 180 degrees out of phase. The difference sinx - -1*sinx = 2sinxgives you twice the voltage difference. We don't have that same luxury with a DC PSU. If the second rail were -12V, then sure, we could connect the two grounds together and get 24VDC out. But both of the rails are +12V with respect to the same ground. If I'm understanding you correctly, you're suggesting that you could tie the 12V line from one molex connector to the GND line of another molex connector, and that the "12V" line on the second connector would then be at 24V relative to the GND of the first connector. Is that what you're suggesting? If so, please don't try it. Since the 12V lines from both molex connectors come from the same solder pad inside the PSU, and the GND lines also come from a common solder pad, if you connect one 12V line to a different GND line, you're shorting out the PSU. You say that you can do that with AC because they're 180* out of phase, but wouldn't they be perfectly within phase if they both come from the same panel? My electrician says you take two 10gauge lines, combine the hot and then you'd have 220v. But since they both come from the same panel, I don't see how they'd be out of phase like you're saying. 23 Joined Jul 29, 2005 Messages 5,770 You say that you can do that with AC because they're 180* out of phase, but wouldn't they be perfectly within phase if they both come from the same panel? My electrician says you take two 10gauge lines, combine the hot and then you'd have 220v. But since they both come from the same panel, I don't see how they'd be out of phase like you're saying. They may come from the same panel, but they're not the same source. In order to get both 120V and 240V, you have to run three wires into the house a common neutral and two AC lines, which are 180 degrees out of phase with one another. Those two 120V lines then feed different circuits for most things in your house. Around half the circuits will be on one and half on the other, all of them connected to 120VAC on one end and the common neutral at the other. Where there is a need for 240V, the plug is wired to one 120VAC line on one side and the other 120VAC line on the other. The difference between those two lines gives you 240VAC. I don't know exactly what words your electrician said, but you might be misunderstanding them. In a way, yes, you're combining the two "hot" wires, I guess. 24 FLECOM Modderator & [H]ardest Folder Evar Joined Jun 27, 2001 Messages 15,773 You say that you can do that with AC because they're 180* out of phase, but wouldn't they be perfectly within phase if they both come from the same panel? My electrician says you take two 10gauge lines, combine the hot and then you'd have 220v. But since they both come from the same panel, I don't see how they'd be out of phase like you're saying. if you look at your panel you will see that there are two hots, and the "dual" breakers for your 240v lines are taking one from each hot... you cant take two lines from the same hot and get 240... you would get 0 between them actually, since they are in phase... 25 Joined Oct 29, 2005 Messages 715 Can we back this thread up to about post 14? 26 Joined Jun 11, 2005 Messages 1,195 I agree... but I figured out another way to do what I want to do and it no longer involves trying to get 24V. Shall I just close the thread? 27 Joined Jul 29, 2005 Messages 5,770 I agree... but I figured out another way to do what I want to do and it no longer involves trying to get 24V. Shall I just close the thread? Care to share what you did to make it work? no need to close the thread, just let it die on its own 28 Joined Jun 11, 2005 Messages 1,195 Well, I was trying to make the doors in my Delorean worklog to open by themselves and hit a dead end as to what I should do. I found some linear actuators on ebay for cheap that ran off 24V. I was not liking the option just because it was too bulky and complicated not to mention pricey for what I was planning on doing. I found another way to lift the doors, hopefully. I just wanted to know if I could have made those linear actuators work before I bought them. Glad I did not actually. [H]ardWare Cases & Case Modding Electronics
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  • modif psu komputer jadi 24 volt